This is Albino D'Amato's second season showing in Paris, and for his new
collection, he drew on the work of another Italian with a penchant for
Frenchness: Bernardo Bertolucci. In particular, D'Amato explained at his
presentation today, he looked to Bertolucci's heroines for
inspiration—Maria Schneider's Jeanne in Last Tango in Paris, for
instance, and Eva Green's Isabelle in The Dreamers. But more to the
point, D'Amato seized on Bertolucci's thing for Parisian interiors and
parlayed the reference into a collection that traded between
architectural construction and fluid draping. The emphasis here was on
dressy dresses, and D'Amato scored with his more structured looks,
especially a head-turning frock in double-faced mikado that was
accordioned with wavelike super-pleats. Other strong numbers included a
chantilly lace minidress with panniers and D'Amato's A-line shifts
punctuated by a scribble of crumpled rosettes. Both of these had a
winning, dreamy weirdness. And D'Amato did well with his day looks, too,
applying unexpected volume to smart gauchos and asymmetric jackets. The
one quibble here was with the embroideries, which were a major theme—in
general, they seemed tacked on and inessential. All in all, though, this
was a strong outing for D'Amato. Paris seems to be his natural
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